Not to pile on here, but I think I could add a few further clarifications to the ones already made above by my friend Sobre Vino.

When comparing “modern” Riojas to “traditional” ones, you do need to take into account the age of the barrels used, as well as the duration of the élévage. “Modern” Rioja producers tend to favor new (or at least newer) oak than the traditionalists, thus, their wines have a clearly identifiable profile in which the aromas of new oak, be it French, American or Slavonian, plays a very significant part.

You mention that fruit that consumers “want”. Don’t forget that, if the profile of ‘modern” Riojas ends up being the favorite of consumers, they also want those toasty, vanillaish, chocolaty, espressoesque, coconutty, custardy and dilly aromas that can come from new oak. I tend to agree with Sobre Vino that “fruit” isn’t really the prmary thing in those “modern” Riojas, but rather a combination of elements uniting in a simplistic, somewhat sweet profile. The oak, in “modern” Riojas tends to act more as a flavoring agent, a seasoning.

By contrast, in “traditional” Riojas the barrel serves a different purpose, being a more aromatically-neutral medium in which the wine undergoes a slow oxidative “mellowing”. Sure, the wine does get some aromas and flavors from the older oak barrel, but beyond a certain age, a barrel can infuse the wine with very little and simply becomes a container that allows tiny amounts of oxygen to come in contact with the wine.

We have to contend, in the cases of many “modern” Riojas, while we’re on the subject of what a wine can “get” from barrel aging, with the strong, raspy, drying tannins that new barrels can add. In too many cases, those tannins can smother that precious fruit that your consumers so desire. The result, after some time in bottle, for too many “moderns” I’ve had inflicted upon me, can be ugly.

I also wondered, reading your two pieces, if you had taken into account the varietal composition of your examples of “modern” and “traditional” Riojas. Both of your “traditionals” are from La Rioja Alta S.A. and both are very distinctive blends. In the case of of the Viña Ardanza (not “Arianza”, as you wrote), the blend contains a substantial proportion of Garnacha, which is responsibel for the particular character of the wine. Too many “modern” Riojas are 100% Tempranillo, which yields a much different result. Any thoughts about that?

I appreciate the intention of your comparisons, but think they need to take many more factors into account.

By the way, I write a Spanish-language blog about wien and many other things at lomejordelvinoderioja.com. My blog is called “La otra botella”. I mention it not a self-promotion, but because on the “Blogsw” column of the portal, two blogs down from mine, is “Clásicos de vanguardia”, the blog by Julio Sáenz. Julio is a friend and the enologist at La Rioja Alta S.A. I believe he would be happy to explain his wines to you.

Best,

Manuel Camblor
La otra botella
http://blogs.larioja.com/otrabotella/posts

I appreciate your effort in trying to show the differences between “old” style Rioja and “modern” Rioja. But I woluld like to make a few points on this issue. Otherwise, people can be confused about what we are talking about. It’s very much the case nowadays, unfortunately.

You say that “The modern reservas will generally have between 12 and 18 months of oak, while the classics will have at least 24, but many times much more. I this case our modern has only 12 months and our classic has 36 months! ”

There’s something very important missing in the comparison you make: the age of barrels. New oak barrels give to wine much more flavors and odors than used oak do. Thus, 12 month aging in new oak wood (specially if the oak is strongly toasted) can completely “squeeze” all the fruit in the wine.

You say that “Thirty six months in oak does not leave the fresh fruit taste most wine consumers today are accustomed to.”. I wonder how people can taste fresh fruit in many of these wines, when the only thing one can smell is tons and tons of wood (vanilla, cocnut, coffee, chocolate, ….).

I bet any wine lover to try to identify in a blind taste a modern Rioja as a Rioja.. The wine soul, the terroir, is almost always hidden by a carved wood mask. New wood is to wine what excessive make-up is to people…

I always thought that in art, the best you can say about an artist is that he/she has a style of his own. Wheter you like the style or not, wheter you like the artwork or not, I find it’s a sign of a good artist to have an individual and recognisable style.

I found the same is pretty much valid for wine. I can like or not the style of a Tondonia white, but as long as it’s absolutely unique I think this is real art in the form of wine.

Just my opinion. Not the more widespread nowadays, but I thought it could be a different opinion interesting to some people.

Forgive my english, as I’m a spanish speaking and sometimes struggle when writing in your language

Cheers,

Sobre Vino
http://www.sobrevino.com

Dominio Valdepusa, Very Good Wine!!

A couple o friends have just presented their new adventure, Moraima, an Albariño D.O. Rias Baixas.

It is the first wine they produce. They are a group of friends and relatives from a village called Barro, near Pontevedra, and they decided to join efforts and try to produce their own wine with the grapes the usually sold to bigger wineries.

The result is Moraima, a young, fruity and aromatic wine.

If you are interested, you can find more about them at their website http://www.adegamoraima.com and at my blog, where I published a short review. http://gourmetymerlin.blogspot.com/2007/06/moraima-una-rara-avis-en-en-panorama.html

By the way, sorry, but my english is terrible.

Regards,

Sobre Vino

I’m afraid I don´t share your point of view on a few statements you make.

Maybe the two wines you mention are not the best example of what good Rioja is. Marques de Cáceres is probably one of the best marketed Rioja wines in foreign countries, and this since a long time ago. But this doesn’t mean it’s the best option around. Not at all. I don’t think we can consider Berberana as a good example of what Rioja can offer either. If you want to have a good opinion on what Rioja is, please consider one of the following: La Rioja Alta (Alberdi, Arana, Ardanza, 904, 890, …), Marqués de Riscal, Marqués de Murrieta, López de Heredia (I specialy like their white gran reservas), Muga, CVNE, …

I disagree in that “long oak aging in older barrels kills all the fruit”. I tend to think that it’s new oak that crashes all the fruit in the wine if it’s not correctly used. Please note that “Old” oak is not the same as “dirty” oak. “old” oak can ve as clean as new one when correctly maintained. Oak was never intended to add any fragrance to wine, although this can seem odd to new consumers nowadays.

Don’t expect to find ripe and exotic red and black fruit in good Riojas, anyway. I always find that good tempranillo grown in Rioja has mainly a distinctive and subtle nose of cherry, that I like a lot. Otherwise, if what you like is fruity wine, you have some of the best examples of unoaked “maceración carbónica” spanish wines in Rioja. Try one from Luberri (Biga), Sierra Cantabria (Murmurón), Ramírez de Ganuza (R), and so on.

Again, congratulations for your blogging and good luck in Madrid.

Best regards,

Sobre Vino