I’ve been writing about Grenache in its various forms over the past month…for me some of the most exciting wines in Spain have Grenache in the mix.  Whether it is is an intense, mineral Priorat based in a Grenache blend or a soft, sweet fruit, old-vine Grenache from Aragon….the variety is endless!  I wanted to talk today about two more of my favorite Grenache’s that are so interesting because they are about as different as two wines can be.  They both show the great results that the grape variety can give when a lot of care is taken in the vineyard and the winery.  Beautiful wines at great prices!

I served both of these wines in a blind France versus Spain wine-tasting.  Their place of origin was obvious to my group of wine tasters, but they loved them both equally!

The Spanish Garnacha is called Atteca 2006 and it is from Bodegas Ateca in  Aragon’s wine appellation of Calatayud.  The area is still rustic, making mostly very average jug wine from Garnacha.  A few wineries have started to excel, relying on the abundant old vine Garnacha in the area to craft more premium wine styles.  Foreign wine-makers have taken an interest in old-vine Grenache…this wine is made by an Australian!  The exuberant fruit is always the focus of this new breed of wines…great care is taken to preserve it through very judicious use of oak and careful protection against oxidation. This particular wine has 10 months in a combination of French and American oak.

In the nose, sweet raspberry jam fruit with touches of vanilla and cinnamon.  The mouth is soft yet explosive, sweet fruit, touché of spice…mouthfilling, with a long soft finish.  Despite the gobs of sweet fruit and 14.5% alcohol, somehow the cood acidity retains it freshness.  Very easy to drink.  A great red wine for summer, for spicy food and for novice wine-drinkers just converting from white wines.  A real bargain at 12€ retail in Madrid.

The French Grenache is a Cote du Rhône Villages Cairanne from Domaine Richaud.  This domaine has become quite fashionable in France and is largely sold out.  Luckily for me it doesn’t sell in Spain and Lavinia here in Madrid has tons of it!  The 2005 is 67% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah, and 3% Carignan.  80% of the wine is fermented in oak vats…the final blend is aged in older French oak barrels. The alcohol is 14.5% though that is barely noticeable.

The wine is quite closed at first…it needs decanting.  When it opens there are aromas of fresh raspberry and bramble…like the raspberries are still on the bush!  There is a touch of meatiness and smoke…very complex nose.  In the mouth, there is a pure raspberry fruit that is striking, with an underlying smokiness and earthiness.  The acidity is bracing and the tannins are intense….a little air brings them all together.  A very long finish that gets longer as the aromas open up.  Fantastic, complex, yet easy to enjoy…great value here in Spain for 16€.  I’ve seen it online in France for 13€! 

The Spanish Garnacha is more hedonistic and easy to drink.  The French Grenache is more complex, and complete, rewarding the patient drinker.  Both of them show the versatility the Grenache can bring to the blend.