There’s lots of talk about some of Spain’s up and coming wine regions….Bierzo, La Mancha, Toro, Jumilla are all the new buzz words.  But really they are old news…all of them have a long track record and good name recognition within Spain and outside Spain.  Now there are a new group of regions appearing on the scene, regions that are super dynamic and are producing some exciting wines.  These are wine areas that most Spanish people will not recognize as areas producing fine wines.  Some of these new areas are overcoming bad reputations for mass produced bulk wine, such as Calatayud, Campo de Borja, and Manchuela.  Others are artisanal areas that have no real wine reputation as of yet.  These include such areas as Granada, Arribes del Duero, Léon and Malaga. 

My area of focus today is located in Malaga, an area historically only known for fortified wines, but is now seeing an increasing focus on still wines. The wine appellation is Sierras de Malaga, which, in contrast to DO Malaga, is only for still, unfortified wines.  The sub-zone is Ronda, a beautiful area in the mountains north of Marbella.  The area is solidly on the tourist track and is famous for its history, bullfighting, and dramatic geography.   The one hour drive up from Marbella is along a twisting windy road that offers spectaculars views of the ocean and mountains.

I had visited Ronda many times but this was the first time I had really focused on the wines.  I went expecting to find interesting wines but few excellent ones…I was truly surprised and came away with a new level of respect.  Not only were the wines better than I expected but the wine projects were some of the most unique I have encountered in Spain.  We were received by some of the most dynamic young winemakers in Spain, enologists that are very bold in their approach to wine and who have ambition, drive and passion.  We were privileged to taste their wines with them.

One of the factors that also surprised me was the microclimate.  I had doubted that Ronda would provide a suitable climate for the most excellent wines; after all it is in southern Spain, where the weather can be very hot and humid during the summer months…hardly ideal for making fine wine.  However, Ronda’s vineyards avoid the worst of the summer weather through altitude….the average altitude is about 600 meters (almost 2000 ft.)  There is a lot of sun and heat during the day, but the temperatures drop at night.  The coastal influence also means that there are higher levels of rainfall than in many parts of Spain. 

The grapes used here are multiple to include typical Spanish grapes such as Tempranillo.  But more common are French grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir.  Reds are the wines that offer the most quality.  I tasted some interesting whites but was not super impressed.  There are also some good rosés.  Winemaking and viticultural techniques are modern but on a small scale.  The wineries are almost all artesanal projects created with a lot of care.

It’s hard to define the wine style as each of the wineries have chosen a different path.  Some value the power and intensity that comes so easily in the hot climate of Spain, other try to create elegant wines that showcase the varietal fruit. 

We visited three very different wineries…all of them very impressive.  See follow on blogs for information on Cortijo Los Aguilares, Bodegas Los Bujeos and Descalzos Viejos.