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Holiday Wine Series: Mencía

January 4th, 2008

Bierzo Mencia Luna BeberideHappy New Year!  We’re in the final stretch of the holidays…only Reyes (Epiphany) to go on 6 Jan.  At least two more lamb and seafood feasts to go! 

When I am trying to select a red for a holiday meal I try to stay clear of the big, extracted, oaky wines that seem to dominate in the Spanish market these days.  When asked for a suggestion, I often steer people towards Rioja…though modern Riojas styles are more and more extracted…they still largely retain a freshness of fruit and acidity that complements many foods.

Another red grape from northern Spain that can match quite well with complex holiday flavors is the Mencía  grape.  It is unique to northwest Spain, though it may be related to the Jaen grape of Portugal. 

It produces elegant wines that are floral and mineral with bracing acidity.  The fruit is usually raspberry-like though in warmer years it gets closer to blackberry.  The tannins are usually quite high.  It’s profile fits it’s cool weather home very well…though the style can vary tremendously…tart and more raspberry when from more coastal areas and rounder with blackberry fruit as you move inland.  Many of the top one come from one of those hotter areas, Bierzo, which is in Leon, but right on the border with Galicia.  Though it retains some Atlantic influence, a series of low mountains and hills protects the area from much of the rain and cold that influences the wines of coastal Galicia.  It can get terrifically hot in Bierzo in summer! 

Bierzo has been a rising star in the Spanish wine scene for several years, with many famous producers from other parts of Spain starting ventures in the area.  Some of my favourite producers include:  Dominio de Tares, Palacios, Peique, and Paixar.  Though prices are rising, generally Bierzo offers good value and excellent quality. 

See below for latest favourite Mencía wine.   It is a wonderful Mencía-based wine that can’t use the appellation DO Bierzo because it is not 100% Mencía.  Instead it is Vino de la Tierra de Castilla Léon.

Wine:  Tierras de Luna
Winery:  Luna Beberide
Vintage: 2003
Denominacion de Origen (DO): Vino de la Tierra de Castilla Leon (Bierzo)
Alc: 14%
Grape variety: Mencía with some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
Oak regime:  16 months in French and American oak
Price:  10-12 euros in Spain

Tasting notes
Visual:  Deep ruby, youthful color
Nose:  Medium intensity.  Perfumy, floral notes is the initial impression, followed by sweet raspberry.  Some oak spice, but the floral/fruit element is dominant.  Very attractive and elegant.   
Mouth:  Fresh fruit, nice oak, and tannins follow each other.  The fruit is sweet and sour raspberry…there is some nice spice and vanilla and some very firm tannins dominate a long finish.  The tannins are still a little dominant….a little air opens up the fruit and brings better balance to the wine.   
Food:  Great holiday wine…has the elegant fruit, the acidity to complement food….won’t compete with most dishes.  And those tannins will take the fatty edge off any lamb dish!  Could be metallic with some high acidity dishes. 

Conclusion:  An attractive and elegant wine with fresh flavors and nice complexity.  The tannins are a little tough and will smooth with a bit more bottle time…but the fruit is fresh enough to wait for it.  Aerate it a little now and it is perfect with your holiday meal! 
 

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